Steely Seamstress

Sewing for life

Sewing The Seventies: Make 1 – Faux Fur Jacket Part 1


Fur Jacket

I’ve probably been influenced by all the faux fur jackets that have proliferated this year, because when I saw a McCalls pattern from 1971 for a faux fur jacket on Ebay I snapped it up.

The pattern has three variations; View A is virtually knee length and includes a detachable hood, View B is below hip level and View C is about waist level. The closures are hook and eyes placed on the front edges of the jackets.

McCalls 3016 Faux Fur Jacket Pattern

I was determined to find some faux fur fabric that wasn’t made of synthetic fibres. Etsy came up trumps with this bright blue cotton / viscose, but the price was alarming at £35.59 per metre. I justified it because those polyester RTW jackets were retailing for £60 – £80 and I would still be making my jacket for less than this price. I ordered 1.5 metres and was very pleased with how soft it felt. Even Master Steely walks past the half-finished jacket and gives it a stroke every now and then!

The cutting-out process was a little fraught. Faux fur is so fluffy and messy. The fur has got everywhere. I find that all my clothes look like I’m the owner of a very furry cat with bright blue hair! I was very relieved when I got past this stage. I ordered some viscose coat lining from Croft Mill. They have quite a selection of viscose linings. After all, why go to the trouble of faux fur fabric in natural fibres if you’re not going to use viscose lining?  I agonised about my choice, because the fur is quite an unusual colour and there is definitely a greenish tinge to the blue. I selected a mid-grey lining with a jacquard paisley pattern, which somehow seemed appropriate for a seventies make.

Faux fur jacket

Fluff everywhere!

I decided to make View B, which is the middle length. I also have enough fabric to make the hood too and add a couple of inseam pockets to my jacket. There are some interesting instructions for creating the shoulder seam for this coat. Essentially there is a dart at the centre-top of each sleeve. When you sew the sleeves onto the coat, the armscyes are sewn first (step 3 below) and then then shoulder seams which extend into this dart are sewn (step 4). I’ve never seen this approach before – any ideas why this was chosen?

Faux Fur Jacket Instructions

Interesting instructions for the sleeves?

Included with the pattern is a little booklet entitled “Fake Fur Fun”. It has some good advise in there including:

  • Paying attention to the nap of the fabric
  • Cutting single thickness
  • Using long stitches
  • Using a darning needle to free trapped fur
  • Shearing the pile on the inside on finished seams to make the seams less bulky

Fake Fun Fun (?) Tips

I’m not quite finished yet, but I tried the jacket on unlined yesterday and found it to be rather warm – much appreciated in this cold weather.

Author: steelyseamstress

Sewing a new wardrobe

11 thoughts on “Sewing The Seventies: Make 1 – Faux Fur Jacket Part 1

  1. Maybe the construction method is because short darts on fur would be tricky?

  2. I have a perfect meme for you on my latest blog post. The lady is wearing a fake fur yellow jacket and looking Devine! I hope to style myself after the other lady in the photo! I can imagine it’s warm. Although I am not sure whether my cats would like it or maybe they would like it too much!

  3. Not sure about the shoulder construction method unless it’s to give a fake raglan effect?? It’s always interesting to see new construction methods although this one does ring a bell. I’m wondering if I’ve seen it in one of the Burda mags. Also I do have a Burda mag with an article on sewing faux fur. I’ll see if I can dig it out (one day in my dreams I will index and catalogue useful articles in Burda mags on a spreadsheet!!). What a fab colour and can’t wait to see the lining. I have a soft spot for paisley 😊

  4. I sewed so many fur jacket! I love them… Well done! Great choice of fabric and lining

  5. Just noticed Burdastyle issue for January this year has a sew with fake fur feature 😊

  6. Pingback: Sewing the Seventies: Make 1 – Faux Fur Jacket Part 2 | Steely Seamstress

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