I’ve watched this challenge from the sidelines for a couple of years, and always wanted to join in. Trouble is December is a really manic month for me and there isn’t much sewing time, but I thought with careful planning, and starting the process early I might just squeeze in a make.
Earlier this year, I bought one of the Drape Drape books and was immediately delighted by all the slightly avant-garde, asymmetrical designs. This got me interested in Japanese designers and I started looking at catwalk videos and photos. I’d never been particularly interested in fashion shows before, since I’d always regarded them as somewhat irrelevant to my wardrobe. However, I found that there are wearable styles and interesting ideas if you look beyond the flamboyance. I have been particularly drawn to the Issey Miyake collections. Now here’s a designer who uses interesting lines and doesn’t find trousers boring!
I started collecting a few ideas on Pinterest and planning which of the garments I would make. Here are a few of the garments that I particular like with my notes.
After much deliberation, I finally settled on this outfit. It’s from Autumn / Winter 2017 Pre Fall collection. I love the asymmetrical vest. I can see myself wearing that either as a top or perhaps over a long-sleeved jersey top. The culottes are a far more summery item, although I think they could be part of a glamorous party outfit. I’m not entirely sure if I’ll make these yet. Let’s just say that I’ll see how much time I have.
My next step was to establish whether I could use or adapt a pattern from my collection, or even buy one. I found this vest pattern by Burda and downloaded the PDF. The pattern is a cross-over vest, similar in style to the Issey Miyake original. It seems to have been made by a few sewing enthusiasts in denim or linen. I particularly like Ellen’s denim version with its embroidery.
Despite the similarities with the catwalk vest, I will still need to adapt the pattern. I think the cross-over on the catwalk garment is more pronounced with the left and right front pieces overlapping beyond the waist, right across the front of the body. I think also, judging by the photo that the Issy Miyake top has some sort of waist tie that holds the garment in place at the waist. The Burda top has some jacket-style pockets. The photo of the Issey Miyake garment doesn’t show clearly enough whether there are any pockets, but perhaps some sort of welt pocket might look cool?
I’ve now printed out the pattern and I’m just about to trace it onto tracing pattern whilst making some initial changes. These include modifying the lower half of the pattern to make the front left and front right cross over more. I’ve also marked in the waist and waist tie placement. I’m still undecided about pockets.
Next, I’m going to make a toile. I know that I don’t make toiles much; I’m too familiar with the changes I need to make now for fitting reasons to feel it is time worth spent. But I feel it is necessary for this project as I am making some considerable changes to the pattern and I want it to fit well across the shoulders and bust. I’m just going to use an old sheet, and although this is going to be much floppier than my intended fabric I hope that I’ll still be able to make the fit and pattern adjustments with reasonable accuracy.
Next post, I’m sure I’ll be a bit further along with my project and I’ll be able to show you my toile and the fabric I’m going to use for the project.