Steely Seamstress

Sewing for life

IPM2017 Hack It contest – Moss Skirt


The last few weeks I have been busy sewing rather than blogging in a vain hope that I would manage two sewing deadlines in two months. I’m not overly fond of combining deadlines and hobbies, but there is one advantage, it makes sure that I stick to a plan and make an outfit.

My first deadline is for The Monthly Stitch. I decided to scale back my contributions to the Independent Pattern Month because of time pressures. July and August are not good months for me to be sewing for deadlines since I get less me-time and more family time. It just isn’t possible to sew much when Master Steely wants to go for a cycle ride or build lego with me. The Hack It challenge is the third contest, previously Monthly Stitch weeks featured a Dress contest and a New To Me contest. For the Hack It contest, the garment must meet at least one of the following criteria:

  • Modify a single pattern to create a new style
  • Combine two or more patterns into one garment

I made two items for the challenge. The first is a skirt using the Grainline Moss pattern.

Moss Drawing

I bought the Grainline Moss skirt pattern years ago. In fact, looking at my blog, I posted my original grey Moss skirt in 2014. This skirt has been in constant rotation since. Without analysing it too much, I think the design sits within the “casual, but not jeans” bracket. Living in the South West of the UK we’re a pretty relaxed bunch down here and I rarely see anyone (men or women) at work in a suit. In fact, a local friend of mine regularly tells me that in her normal casual attire, she feels too smart when she heads further west to see her family in Cornwall, although they can’t all be flip-flops and shorts down there, surely? Anyway, the Moss skirt is good for elevating myself above jeans at work.

I picked up the fabric for my skirt at Birmingham Market at the Sew Brum event. It is a cotton corduroy and I think it may be a second as occasionally the print is a little off and I see some white areas in the pattern. I think I managed to steer round these during the cutting steps.

The Moss pattern has two views, but the only difference between the two is the optional hem band. I wanted to give the skirt a new look and enter it in the Hack It contest. I thought that welt zip pockets would look great on this type of skirt. It turns out that this isn’t a particularly simple modification. I needed to remodel the front of the skirt and the various pocket pattern pieces.

Using a video by Gertie on zipped welt pockets, I followed the steps to create my pockets. The video shows how organza can be used to minimise the bulk on the welt and I used this technique for my pockets. There was one disappointment with the video and that was that Gertie used some special pocket zips by Coats. I tried to find some online, but couldn’t find anything in the UK. Perhaps I’m looking in the wrong places though – I assume these zips would be useful for making bags. Any bag-makers out there know where these precious zips can be ordered from? I felt down-hearted about the zips as I could see that the zips made the finish on the pockets exceptional on the video. I bought some standard closed one end zips and because I knew that it would be more likely that there would be a small hole at the open end of the zip I positioned a strip of my corduroy fabric behind the zip to make this look tidier. I didn’t want to make the whole pocket from the corduroy as I thought that might be a bit bulky.

I’m rather pleased with how the pockets turned out. Here are a few photos of my pockets during construction.

Construction Gallery

1. Creating the welt pocket from the front 2. Creating the welt pocket from the back 3. Finished pocket

The rest of the skirt was sewn pretty much as per the Moss instructions. The only addition being some belt loops. I tried to pattern match, but it isn’t matched very well. I found that the back of the pattern is slightly curved at the centre back an trying to match across a seam that includes a zip closure is hard too, but I think I’ve made a reasonable, but compromised effort with that.

In summary, I’ve very pleased with the Moss skirt. The instructions are easy to follow (at least the steps I followed for this make). I’d sewn one previously, so I didn’t have to make any pattern adjustments. One of the features I like so much about this skirt is the graded waistband. Do you know what, that pattern pieces has so many pin holes in it now I may have to re-trace it. I’m adding this waistband to virtually all my makes now. This type of waistband seems to fit me so much better. But of course, most of all I love my new pockets!

Author: steelyseamstress

Sewing a new wardrobe

8 thoughts on “IPM2017 Hack It contest – Moss Skirt

  1. Pingback: Hack It! A Moss Tonic | The Monthly Stitch

  2. Liking your zip pockets, and the whole outfit. I’ve only tried those type of zip openings in bags where neatness isn’t so important. These look perfect! 😍

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