You may have noticed that we’ve gone back in time again to 2019. I suppose I just wanted to get my blog post titles to match up as this is a second installment, Part 1 being here.
My main aim with creating a bodice block was to use this to either draft my own patterns or to adapt existing patterns.
At the end of this post, I’d drawn my block on squared paper and I had made the necessary adjustments, such as raising the armscye required for a sleeveless bodice.
Step 4 Rotating the shoulder dart to make a bust dart.
I traced my front bodice block from the squared paper onto tracing paper. The next step was to rotate the shoulder dart to make a bust dart. I drew a line from the side seam to the point of the bust and cut along the line. I closed the original dart, by hinging the pattern at the bust apex. I then secured it with tape. When the bust dart is in the final position for the design, I shortened it by 2 cm.
Step 5 Creating a basic bodice pattern
I then made a “neater” copy of my front bodice pattern by tracing from the paper piece creating in step 5 above. I added the seam allowances at this stage. I also made a back bodice pattern piece, just by tracing from the bodice block and adding a seam allowance.
I used the new pattern pieces and cut out a toile. I used an old sheet.
Here are the photographs of me wearing this toile (not the most flattering pics, but useful for the process). First of all, I think I should have cut the back bodice piece in two parts so that I could get the toile on and off easily over my head, or perhaps made the neck hole larger. As it was, I pinned one side seam and one shoulder seam, so that’s why the left side looks a little wonky. The bodice fitted well enough at the bust. I can still see that I get a little gape at the armhole, although I don’t recall it being too irritating when I tried it on and I’m only now noticing this in the photos. I didn’t shape at the waist at all, since I was really only interested in the shape around the shoulders and bust, so there is a lack of fit around the waist. I felt confident enough to move onto the next stage. (although perhaps I might try making the bust dart a little bigger to reduce that armhole gape totally, in the future).
Last year I created these “Wrap and Go” trousers from a seventies pattern. I haven’t worn them much because I have realised that I don’t have any tops that seem to work with this style of trousers. I can see that a cropped or fitted top would be the best companion for these trousers and I don’t have any of these. I don’t often wear tops that fit snug at the waist. It is a style that I shy away from normally, as I like to hide my lack of waist. Basically, I needed to find a style that works both with the trousers and yet works to hide the protruding stomach. It’s a tall ask and although I have found several possibilities that may fit this description, I may need to make a few tops in order to get this right.
Here are the styles that I thought would work:
I have New Look 6252 in my stash. Although, I would be far more at home with the long-line View B, I chose View C with the ties at the back of the garment. I’m slightly concerned that when I wear the wrap trousers the outfit is overloaded with ties, but with the top’s ties at the back and trousers’ at the front it should look fine.
For my first version of this top, I picked out a soft cotton lawn with feathers in reds, greens and oranges on a off-white background. It won’t team well with the trousers, but this is really a trial-run to see if I like this style of top.
Surprisingly, the New Look pattern doesn’t have bust darts of any type. Using my bodice block, I drafted a revised front pattern piece adding a bust dart based on my body measurements.
I followed these steps to add the bust dart into the pattern:
- Draw a line from the highest point of the shoulder to the hem parallel to the centre front line
- Find the bust apex (I know this from my original measurements to be xxx cm from the highest point of the shoulder)
- Square across from the side seam to the bust apex
- Draw a line into the lower third of the armhole
- Cut up from the hem to the apex, then cut to the armhole, stopping just before it to make a hinge point
- Cut to the hinge point at the armhole
- Cut from the side to the apex to make another hinge point
- Add paper underneath and pivot the pattern open as wide as the dart measurement on the bodice block
- Tape in place
- True the hem
- Square across and measure the bust dart.
For reference, I found this on-line tutorial helpful
The back pattern piece was also widened slightly to follow the measurements on my bodice block. All the other pattern pieces (ties and collar) were kept as per the pattern.
The construction process was fairly straightforward and the instructions provided were reasonable. I did make a small change to the construction. The ties are drafted so they are just one layer and the edges folded over to the wrong side. I didn’t think this is the neatest finish and I decided to make my ties as a double layer, “lining” them with white cotton lawn. Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough fabric to line them with the feathers fabric, but I can live with this compromise.
I created my own bias binding for the armscyes. These were quite fiddly to do and I didn’t end up unpicking them and re-doing them to reduce the bulk. Interestingly there doesn’t seem to be any gape at the armholes, so not sure how I managed to reduce that in the process. Perhaps bias-binding the armscyes took care of it.
Altogether I really like this top. I have worn it with an old favourite red skirt, like in these photos. I think I may have found a style with a fitted waist that I like. My next step is to find a fabric that will look good with the Wrap and Go trousers. There are lots of different colours in the trousers, so I’m hoping I’ll be able to find something easily.
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Day 31 @sozoblog #memademay2020. Last day of Me Made May. So sad, it has been a fun diversion this year and it has been great to see everyone's makes. Thanks @sozoblog , as ever for organising this. The top is a new unblogged make teamed with a very old RTW skirt, shortened into a summer skirt by me. (The skirt is seriously old, nearly 20 years old!) Yesterday, the toilet stopped flushing, so we had to make a trip to BandQ today, to get parts to mend it. There's only so much you can do with flushing with a bucket. This was not pleasant trip, as we had to walk there in the boiling heat, and stand in the queue in the boiling heat. All in all, the trip took 3 hours. Still no flushing loo, as we are still missing a part (grrr….). #newlook6252 #newlookpatterns #lockdownchic #memade #memadewardrobe